An Island Vacation
Our children said, ‘’Don’t write about Ocracoke.’’ ‘’Don’t mention the name! ’’ But then they thought about all the national publicity it has received and said that the secret is out. I hope I can explain to our readers what is so special about this vacation spot that the Lilly Family has been coming back to since the sixties.
First of all, there are its miles of unspoiled beaches and marshes. As we get out of our car once it’s settled on the Hattaras Ferry, we rush to the rail to watch for dolphins and jellyfish. Excitement mounts as we come into the landing. Some fishermen’s cars are parked nearby, and we talk about the puffer fish, the odd looking gar and sea robin we caught in the inlet on another trip. The trip down the narrow island to Ocracoke Village seems endless. As we pass the campground with its cold water showers, we remember camping right behind the dune and being lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves. We also remember the mosquitos and green flies when the wind dies down.
The village of Ocracoke was a quiet fishing village with two grocery stores, two churches, one policeman, and no stop light when we started coming there. Crafts made by local residents during the quiet winter were for sale. There were hand carved decoys, many creative shell crafts, paintings and hand blown glass. Now there is a four story inn on Silver Lake and many more shops and restaurants. The parking lot at the widely advertised Howard’s Pub is always full and attracts many visitors from up island, Hattaras and even Oregon Inlet.
In the last few years, we have stayed at Blackbeard’s Lodge. We noted with pleasure that although its gray shingled, rambling exterior had not changed, the rooms were newly painted, caulked and the old hardwood floors had been refinished. We like the game room with its pool table and foozeball, and the soft, inviting sofas in the lobby. White painted rockers and swings on porches upstairs and down are almost always in use. There was a flurry of acitivity when we checked in at the ship’s prow desk. Eventually, we totaled twenty-two on all three floors of the lodge.
We learn a little more about the island’s history each time we come. At first, it was Blackbeard’s story. By 1716 he had a terrible reputation as a ruthless pirate. He was a tall, strong man with a beard that flowed down his chest. Before a battle he stuck smoldering hemp fuses under his black hat. Over his long black coat he strapped pistols, daggers and a cutlass. Fate caught up with him when the British from Virginia sent two shallow water sloops under the command of Lt. Maynard to capture him. After a fierce hand to hand battle, Blackbeard was beheaded. Some say his treasure is buried on the island.
A cedar-shaded sand and stone road in the middle of the village is another clue to its history. The graveyard beside it shows the names of many descendents of the original settlers on the island: William Howard, who bought the island in 1756, the O’Neal family, Scarboroughs, Gaskills, Jacksons, Garrish, among others.
In 1798, the inlet between Ocracoke Island and Portsmouth Island to the south was the only entry to Pamlico Sound and the mainland. The Hattaras Inlet and Oregon Inlets were not opened by hurricanes until years later. Deep water ships unloaded their cargo at Portsmouth and shallow water skiffs manned by the islanders carried cargo to the mainland. Many ships floundered on the shoals near the inlet. The Ocracoke Lighthouse was built that year. It is the second oldest lighthouse on the East Coast. A classic white-washed beauty, its light, now electric, still warns of the shoals.
They have been the scene of many shipwrecks. The following account came from lighthouse records. ‘’The Richard Stafford, a 3 master bound from Boston to Darien, Georgia on the 6th of December, 1894 reduced sail and tried to stay near shore when gale force winds began to blow.
He was approaching the shoals of the inlet when his vessel struck bottom. Its large centerboard became wedged in the sand. The vessel with sails still flapping swung broadside, ripping the centerboard from her belly. The vessel rested about 300 yards from the beach, and a six man crew from Portsmouth came out in a leaky surf boat. Their boat was swamped in the turbulent waters, but the crew managed to reach shore and were pulled onto the beach by onlookers. Ocracoke lighthouse keeper, Terrell, tried to enlist a crew and one man responded. He and the men from Portsmouth rushed to the scene with a beach apparatus. The storm was still raging at 8 PM. Three sailors from the Richard Stafford had taken refuge on the bowsprit. The schooner was rolling bad and the surf was breaking over her.
At daybreak a line from the beach apparatus was fired to the vessel and the captain and one crewman were run ashore in a breeches buoy. The injured steward, who had been lashed to the rigging, died.’’
Hurricanes menace the island, and Ocracokers agree that the worst was on September 14, 1944. As they went to bed, all was calm, but the next morning they awoke to the tide surging in their front yards. The water was up to four feet on the fences. As they had done before, they opened their doors to the rising waters to keep their houses in place on their foundations, and left by boat. When they returned, some found fish trapped under their furniture.
A hardy lot, the islanders have developed a tight-knit community. The year round population is around 800 and it swells to 3,000 in the summer. After Labor Day the island’s permanent residents breathe a collective sigh of relief. No matter how much money they have made, they welcome autumn’s approach when they have the place to themselves.
The Ocracokers put on an impressive 4th of July parade. This year’s was no exception. They showed their sense of humor in one float that was decked out like a giant mosquito. Kazoos supplied the buzz. Teenagers walked alongside touching onlookers with wands that make red spots. Other floats displayed fishing poles and giant crabs. Children pulled wagons and rode bicycles, and mothers pushed strollers all decked out in red, white and blue.
In closing, I must mention the sand sculpture contest which is conducted in blazing sun at the beach from nine til twelve on the 4th. Our grandson, Ben and his girl friend, Michele, won third place with a giant toadstool. They were so happy. More next time about Ocracokers and our vacation.
– Mary